Lambayeque Culture

I'm pleased to say I'm learning quite a lot about my ancestors, the ancient civilizations being more interesting to me than the current one.
I don't think I mentioned my visit to Lima's Museo de Oro (Gold) but I buzzed off that place, mainly because there were rows and rows of orejones(earrings), narijeras (nose sheilds) and big gauge labrets (Chimu civilization: has a proper name but I lost my notes)
As I already knew, orejones are the sign of nobility and/or wisdom. Annoyingly only men are thought to have worn them in this manner. (Although not according to Mel Gibson's error filled Apocalypto)

Today I went and did a touristy trip of the Lambayeque culture, which is probably the main reason someone would come to Chiclayo in the first place. (Or at least me anyway)
The first stop was the Huaca Rajada, the original location of the tomb of the Lord of Sipan. It was only discovered in 1987, mainly due to Huaqueros (theives) looting lots of gold jewellry from the tombs. So along came the archeologists and started digging - with dental tweezers!) and unearthed some of the worlds best preserved tombs within rapidly disintegrating pyramids. When a lord died, it was custom to bury him with his whole entourage: the missus, the mistress, the child, the bodyguard, the servants (males had their feet chopped off so they couldn't run away), the llama, the dog. His sacerdote (bishop) had a seperate tomb. Should anyone of this clan die before the lord, they got buried temporarily. Folks still alive at the time of his death got slain. It was also custom for him to be buried with symbols of his people, which were the clay pots shaped like people. In this case, the Lord's death was unexpected so the clay pots are not very decorated. He had to be buried quick. (His father's death on the other hand had been expected so the pots are very detailed)
Plenty of gold was buried with the Lord, for the afterlife. This included 3 sets of orejeras, 2 narijeras: gold shelds that were worn threw the septum. They covered the lower face shaped like half moons, hollow on the inside edge so that the wearer sounded like deity from the echo and their facial expression could not be seen. Also his half-moon hat, his gold belts, dress, mouth full of gold coins). But what was even more treasured than gold was shells. And plenty of the jewellry were made out of intricate shell beading (into huge chest pieces) and wristbands. The Lord also had size 6 feet and some sandals made out of silver that were also in his tomb.
The Lambayeque were very different to the Incas in that being from the coastal regions, they worshiped the Moon as opposed to the Sun. The Moon after all controlled the ocean tides, and was represented in their metalwork by Silver. Silver was worn at night, when the moon was out, gold during the day for the Sun.
Some of the orejeras were made with tiny gold sequins pinned on, that when subject to movement (walking) shimmer and reflect light. In their world, even numbers of decoration on jewellry signified life, odd numbers death. Life jewellry would have smiling faces on it, death unhappy faces. Plenty of dress accessories weighed well over 1kg, and the main gold dress weighed 10kg!
Llamas actually were able to live in this area pre-colonization (spaniards changing the land for rice and sugar cane) as it was a forest type terrain. Dominated by the super strong carrob tree which was used as reinforcement in their structures - and to cover their tombs.
El Nino followed by the Inca domination eventually ended this civilization

I think I might take a history evening class when I get back home...

The next stop was the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipan, which was one amazingly massive modern pyramid constructed in the middle of a small community. Only nobility lived in pyramids, the commoners lived in houses; so quite true to life!
Here is where the actual tombs and real gold, bronze, ceramic and shell artifacts are kept, sealed in glass to preserve them from our dirty germs ad cameras. (no cameras allowed inside). This was a really cool setup and I'm glad I booked the whole trip. The tour guide passed on a lot of information in a bad combination of spanish and english. As well as getting as many anti-american and spanish stories in as possible (to the pleasure of the chicago people on the tour) , and also some strong pro indiginous rants!
I couldn't stop myself from purchasing a pair of replica orejeras which were quite expensive but unlikely to be able to buy anywhere else. Luckily my hostel is 13 soles a night!

After 3 hours in the museum it was time for dinner (I was starving by this time). I made friend with the americans, one of whom was interestingly half chiclayo as his dad is from here. His cousin was also a good source of knowledge on how not to get ripped off by the locals.

The we went on to the pyramids, which were pretty impressive - my photos don't do them justice, especially the trek up to the top. There was a magic stone up there which I had a go on but no signs of anything abnormal just yet.
By this time is was half five - I'd done the equivalent of a full day at work and was feeling it. Oh to be travelling. Suckers! ;)