Saturday, March 15, 2008

Amazon Adventure

I arrived from Tingo Maria to Pucallpa, the last city to be reached by road before the Amazon on Sunday night I think.. the days are blurring a bit to be honest, in true slacker style.

It was a fairly uncomfortable journey given that 10 minutes before getting on the bus I had just read in the Lonely Planet book that this route isn´t safe (esp at night, which i was also doing) as there are armed robberies linked to coca trafficking on this route. Ooops. not to mention my persistent trots and a non-stop 8 hour journey due to the armed robberies.

however, i arrived in one stain free immaculate piece without any trouble. spent two days here, staying in a hostal run by two elderly sisters who enjoyed the grim side of christianity - my room had a huge picture of a bleeding christ over the bed, dying for my sins. pucallpa was pretty dull, im assuming becuse i arrived on a monday. still, i managed to hook up with some gringo guys heading to Iquitos on the Don Segundo boat so i was a little more relaxed about the 4 day trip.


Unfortunately, i am a tourist in my own country. which sucks but is true, I have been told out right a few times. Peruvian men are pretty persistent in trying to rip me off at any possible chance, hence the above relief at meeting some other europeans. Around the Amazon i don´t look like any of these guys, and come to think of it, not too much in Lima either. In Huanuco, where my birth mother is from, also stood out like a sore thumb.... On the plus side, the peruvian women are pretty keen...every cloud has a silver lining and all that. My sister does look immensely like the folks here though, scarily so as i looked around the boat from my permanent 5 day hammocked state. I wonder if she would get the same treatment as I am. I´m keen to call her and talk to her about it, as really she´s the only person who will ever be able to understand what I´m feeling right now.

Managed to get my shoes stolen on the boat by day 3, which sucked due to Night of the Gigantic Flying Cockroaches on Night 2. The bugs kept flying towards the light above my hammock and then falling down on my body, in order to avoid getting trapped on the spiders web that has been thoughtfully spun over the bulb. (fortunatley quite a small arachnid). These bugs are the size of the Kinder egg toy holder, so this regular incident wasnt exactly welcomed. My shoes, carefully positioned so I could drop out my hammock and slip em on and stamp the fucker dead. They do not die under the weight of a flip flop, so luckily this event was a one night only occurrence. As i dodged the cucarachas exiting the toilets, i passed a young girl squealing as she brushed a sizeable pile of carcasses out into the river, some of which in their crushed state still managed to waggle their legs. My friend David put one on my head in the morning as a practical "joke". There are downsides to being a bloke.. i guess i was looking a bit too practical for this trip though, so maybe its back to inpractical wasteful skate shoes or stick to the flip flops.

I wrote this on the boat yesterday...


The boat ride is pretty cool, in terms of living like the average poor peruvian. I can feel my muscles wasting away from lack of protein and exercise. I´m hungry and in low spirits which I´m sure so are they. The meals on the boat are pretty much slop and stale bread for breakfast (i haven´t dared try the slop tbh), rice, a tiny bit of chicken (eg: half a wing) and 2 boiled green bananas for lunch. Tea is chicken broth with noodles in it. All cooked up by a fabulous pair of queer looking people, a hybrid of biffa bacon´s mutha with eyeliner and plucked eyebrows. They scowl and serve very little to anyone who laughs at them. In my head I have conjured up fanatasies of them having Meat Men times in the downstairs boiler room - especially after seeing them holding hands with the super butch macho captain. I got a lot of meat on the last day, and my two friends got a special tomato and pepper with their meal. it was noted.

I wonder if the peruvians think the food is good or not? They all run for the meal gong when it sounds, very unbritish behaviour. My mum always used to tell me off for doing this.. But I like seeing their happy faces as they can´t get to the Esmeralda kitchen any faster. I wanted to take a photo but as with many situations I realize it´s pretty out of order. This their life, not just a boat trip. I´m glad I got to experience this.

The boat is a great place in terms of reading, planning and reflecting.

So far I´m going to Yurimaguas after a few days in Iquitos, and then onto Chiclayo on the bus. That will probabaly take a week to get there, maybe more if the boat to Yurimaguas isn´t that frequent. I reckon I´ll spend 5 days in Chiclayo looking at some of the ruins and surfing in the nearby beach town. Then another bus back to Lima and either surf there or make my way to Ica, Arequipa, Puno and Cuzco. I might buy myself another pair of shoes for the Inca Trail or maybe not...the flip flops from Brazil seem to have stopped rubbing my feet so I´ll see how my flat feet deal without a supportive arch.

Read two really good books on this boat, George Orwell´s 1984 and the Motorcycle Diaries. The latter had some quite harsh reflections on the people of this country: " they are a defeated race".

It is really hard to see people living in such shocking conditions, especially in Huanuco. It was extremely filthy, poor, small and boring, yet without any other options. I met a little boy called Joni who asked to eat my sloppy seconds, that I only really ate so I could take my malaria tablet with. It was very humbling and I made a note to always finish whatever I get from now on, as well as to stop being such a stomach on legs. Joni lived up in the shanty town of Huanuco, he said he knew my birth mother when I told him my story and her name. I thought it was sweet of him to try and pretend. It was also a good slap in the face as to how life could have turned out for me. That kid could have been me. I´m not angry with my birth mother anymore, at 19 she gave me not only the chance of life but also the best opportunities to go with it. I´m probably one of the luckiest bastards alive and I´m not planning on throwing it away.

A corrupt government and a failing economy hardly inspires people to believe life will ever get any better.

1984 on the other hand explores how heirachal society works on the need for the poor to be kept in their place, uneducated. As well as for the government to keep engaging in war, in order to waste resources so that the poor can never have enough and never afford to go to college. Never to fully realise that they carry the economy and deserve more than anyone to have more. War is necesarry so that the masses believe in the government (who manipulate the media) in order to look after the difficult affairs that they dont have time to understand, because they´re busy working to survive.

I guess that´s why we look at South America in general\in hope to actually overthrow the government and demand change. Their hierachy is built on a mass of extreme poverty, they revolt because to not do so would mean (means) starvation and death. Unlike Europe, where the poor can still scrape an existence.

Hierachy only exists by keeping the majority down, and whilst I for one would like nothing more than to live in a world where everyone has the same opportunities, wealth and (un)status, there´s always someone who would want more - it´s human nature isn´t it? I just don´t understand how everyone on this planet will ever co-exist in peace and harmony, which isn´t meant to sound pessimistic just a need for me to do more.

Think globally act locally, has always been one of those phrases out of Schnews I think a lot about. The plight of transexuals in South America is something I´m keen to inform more people at home about. In Brazil for example, your aquired gender is not even recognized. I´m sure it´s like that in most of these countries, but need to do more research...

Because really, England is my home. My respect for my Parents has gone up tenfold on this boat trip. They spent 10 years living on the Amazon and loved it. Their own self constructed mud hut, just like the rest of the locals, if anything they´re more peruvian than I´ll ever be, than I´ll ever be able to experience in this trip anyway. 10 years living on the Amazon, as beautiful as it may be, would be tough as fuck and sounds like my idea of living Hell. Respect.

All that said, the extremely young mothers on this boat have done a fantastic job of making sure their numerous offspring are clean and combed (with filthy brown water pumped fresh from the Amazon into the sink tap) before breakfast at 7AM and in another set of clean bed clothes at 9PM. As opposed to us gringo scruffs who havent showered or changed clothes since Tuesday. (I don´t actually have any clean clothes left)

We really are on a chicken boat. There is a cock and a hen upstairs, the former greets in the morning at 5AM with a loud series of uncontrollable cockadoodledoo´s. They are the proud parents of the woman in the hammock next to me´s cardboard box of 7 loud cheeping chicks. They get let out every so often to run around the decks and strut their big strong legs. No battery farm here, although they still will get eaten. At least here, they use absolutely everything, and the little runts dont get their necks snapped just for having a gimpy leg. I picked a few of them up and asked the woman if she could eat them after having reared them, as she genuinely seems very proud of them, an extension to her own offsping. "Of couse" was the smiling answer.

There´s also 3 scared cows on the front deck who crap themselves frequently with fear, and a few pigs too.
The children are doing really well all things considering. Only tonight are they really starting to get bored and tired (read noisy and hyoeractive). There´s so many really small kids, one of them reminds me of my nephew Joel quite a bit. And whilst he plays with our beers cans - his mother being complelty fine with this- and puts bits of dirt off the cockroach corpse ridden floor into his mouth, I can´t help but think about the stark differences in his and Joel´s life. Because Joel had a 50\50 chance of being one of these kids too.

Got a few hours left before nightfall (7PM) when the mozzies start and hopefully we´ll be in Iquitos before morning. Being on testosterone I think makes me extremely tired. The trip has been great because I get to lie in my hammock all day, reading, sleeping, having a beer, before having the communal meal and then napping off the food\drink before settling down for a nice early night around 9PM...

Thursday, March 6, 2008

Lima Limon

So Lima is interesting in terms of people watching, but generally too chaotic for me.

The traffic network is stressing me out because I can´t understand how the hell people aren´t getting killed on these roads. Plus in true engineering geekness, I have been racking my brains on what the best solution(s) would be for this city. And I can´t work it out...God help whoever gets to sort these roads out 20 years down the line.


I fagged out for a bit the other day as there was supposedly some "queer\curious" event on a tuesday. It actually consisted of just about 10 gay guys sipping overpriced cocktails, listening to shocking 1994 dance music. Still, it was an experience as 75% of them had similar builds and features to me, which is odd after all these years.

I´m not feeling that connected to the people here as it does feel like I was just born here, look like them, but I´m pretty british and priviledged. Yesterday I got to see the hospital where my life began and took a few photos, then got callously ripped off by the taxi driver who demanded the quote in dollars, not soles. Looking back, this was only 16 quid to me, which in all fairness has been known to dribble out of my pockets with ease and probably meant him and his kid could have a few nice days. It was just the fake pal-ness of it all, pretending to give a shit about something quite deeply personal to me and asking me lots of questions about my family; once he knew i lived in London he was laughing. So from now on I have decided to publically be a student or a firefighter, and generally not say too much about much.
Sitting back in Larco Mar I took note of all the indigenous people begging and the general astuteness they have towards gringos. It´s hard to explain exactly how that makes me feel, because I guess I dont´t know what it feels like to have nothing. But I´m also not capable of ripping people off either, and it makes me irratated that so many people from where I come from are quite capable and skilled at doing so. I realise that having grown up with white parents makes it impossible for me to see myself as "us" and my folks as "them", and there´s no racial animosity in me.
So I have decided to leave this chaos behind and trek up to see the area where my biological mother is from, called Huanuco. It´s an 8 hour bus ride and cost 35 soles which i think is pretty good considering the picture of the nice coach. Will save me a night at a youth hostel anyway, so I hope the bus doesn´t turn out to be a pumpkin! From then on I plan to make it up to Yurimaguas (by bus and collectivo) too, and see where my sister is from. And then I´m going to take a lancha upto Iquitos and hopefully sail down a bit of the Amazon just to say I have. My British parents spent a good decade sailing up and down this river, pulling peoples rotten teeth out and dishing out medical supplies, so I think this venture might actually allow me to have a valid opinion on Worldly matters in my Dad´s eyes.
And that´s as far as my plans go, will probably take a week or so to get to Iquitos and another week of Amazon Adventure. I´d like to buy a shrunken head but life may not be that kind to me.

Todays´s treat was hearing Angels by Robbie Williams on the panpipes in El Parke de la Cultura. Laughed my arse off.

Tuesday, March 4, 2008

Un Nuevo Sol

so here i am waiting for my washing to be done before I head out to discover more of Lima.
I spent around 2 weeks in Rio, although the last week was a good 60km south of the city - surfing in Recreio.
Prior to that I did the usual sights of Sugar Loaf Mountain,nearly bumping straight into Neville Glue & wife who are church friends of my parents. Almost a sticky situation (!) seeing as they havent seen me since i was 18 and female. Luckily they didnt even recognize me - I was kind of tipsy and not in a mood to explain the ins and outs of my life since 1996.
I found a weird black flower in the Jardin Botanico, nailed a few caiprinhias by the Redeemers feet and also got to see a footie match in Maracana. Botafogo vs. Flamengo - it was pretty cool, somehow i managed to get a good spot just behind the goal post. Unfortunatley Botafogo lost after being 2 up so the atmosphere was pretty tense at the end. got chased by riot police on horses as i went to get the Metro home which was fairly full on but luckily (?) i have plenty of experience at this sort of thing. it was like Mayday all over again.

It is not possible to purchase steroids or arimidex over the counter at pharmacies here, at least not in the tourist zone. Apparently in Peru it is, according to the chemist. More on that later.

I`m shedding a new skin as I have been surfing for the past week amongst doing absolutley sod all apart from lie on the beach, swim and eat. The waves in Recreio are fat. I can sit and watch them for hours before tapping into a coconut and reapplying sunblock. I`ve always loved the sea, and after this week its made me even more determined to actually live near an ocean in the next 10 years. My only problem is whether I can last that long!

Made some new pals, my surf instructor Milly who is from Hawaii and will be heading up to Peru to catch some waves on this side of the continent. I`m looking forward to seeing her surf seeing as generally she`s just been teaching me or other beginners. Also made friends with some of the other brazilian and venezuelan workers there as I was sharing the dorm with them. Dorm being an overstatement - my bedroom back home is twice the size of that dorm; and only houses me, as opposed to 6 people. Still, it`s been an experience. I have had my tits out just the same as the other guys which is the first time anyone straight has seen my chest since surgery. Was quite nerve racking, especially as all the guys are proper surfer dudes with bodies to match. But noone batted an eyelid so I think it must look real. Also had to deal with the all male dorm habits of jerking off unsuttley. Now I thought about joining in, seeing as my bunk bed is jigging on its own accord cos of whoever above or below, but decided against it as theres gonna be certain aromas or sounds i cant replicate... i have studied xtube too throughly i think. it`s hard in more ways than one: little reminders that i`m special...timmy!

anyway, brazil was alright. im not sure if its the Nibido or what, but I havent seen better racks yet. I will monitor this though, world service and all that.

Meanwhile, here in Lima I got in at 5am, after an 18hr flight that stopped at Sao Paulo, Buenos Aires, Santiago and finally Peru. Don`t ask, yes there are shorter routes. Needless to say I was exhausted when i got here, especially due to the time difference. However, I have had about 10 days of early nights in a row (minus one or two)so tonight I`m gonna check out my roots.




Thursday, February 14, 2008

"i killed Jay"

..said my nephew for the first time this saturday gone. Making me the happiest uncle alive!(although i lost the sword fight)
And my sister is happy that I'm becoming her brother, although she told me she was angry when she first found out.
i guess time and patience is what it takes, and so far it's paid off.
i'm finishing work on tuesday 19th, with a meeting of "TfL vs. A Developer", my role being to make sure surrounding bus journey times and reliability will be minimally affected. I've developed a fetish for intelligence. Work have been ok with me leaving, spun a bit of a white lie as to the reasons, but i have my future to think about!

TransActive goes live towards the end of the summer and i need to be in a position to be fund it. (that's my transgender and queer gym - popping up in the south east of london, exact place yet to be determined)

i'll leave work at 4pm and meet my bro, quick change of clothes and get on that plane - destination Rio de Janeiro. I can't wait!

Thursday, January 24, 2008

Jungle Warfare

tonights session:

squats 3x10 @100kg - piece of piss
deadlifts 1x8 @70kg, 1x6@110kg, 1x8@130kg, 1x3@150kg
shrugs 1x10 @60kg, 1x10@100kg, 1x10@140kg
plus calves, abs, obliques

i'm back! my ab and oblique training is really paying all lifts were raw except for the 150 deadlift, where i used a belt
:)

really enjoying training thom up, he's motivating me to lift heavier all the time even though he's just beginning, im pleased with his final 5x60kg deadlift
protein beckons

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

M!

my passport is now officially M...
the week started a little darkly but i can see the light at the end of the tunnel :)

Monday, January 7, 2008

inca kola

just been reading this book over the weekend, my xmas present off dave (plus the latest horrorist cd seeing as i had the norovirus when i tried to see him play a few weeks ago).
all sorts of worries are now creeping through my head - like how too piss standing up at the side of the chicken bus, segregated: one side for men, one side for women. the mango is effective sometimes, but its uncomfortable and always that worry of screwing up.
i've been thinking a lot about metoidoplasty lately, i wonder if it's all just a progressive spiral until everything is done. i can remember a couple of years ago believing i would never transition. or never have surgery. and definetly never have bottom surgery. i guess circumstances change - i never thought i'd enjoy working!
tommorrow i'm seeing my cousin tim for the first time in about 3 years. seeing as we both work in tfl, we booked it as official meeting...
saw my dog at the weekend, and had a good old chinwag with my friend who looks after him. she's actually become a really good mate lately, in many ways reminds me of myself when i was younger, except with much more of a clue of what life is about. anyway, it was nice to see all of seth's clan who've done such a wicked job of looking after him this past 16 months. it's funny to think of seth not so much as my dog but a little bear in his own right, with his own network of humans!
i also met up with a lot of the guys i used to hang out with back in the early 2000's, and a sort of mild panic rose when i saw them all sat on the train waiting for me to peg it down the platform straight from having walked the dog, and shiv driving me manically from shipley to leeds train station. but they were all super cool about everything, not even needing explanations of why my name's changed since i last saw them or why i have sideburns now. i assume good old kinder must have updated them all which made it a lot easier and just plain nice to not to have to start the conversation with "so i changed gender..." and their attitude made me remember why i used to hang with them in the first place. sweet.