Monday, March 31, 2008

Olas Peru

Pacasmayo was a sweeeeeet place, I think the smaller the place is the better in terms of interacting with local folks. Or maybe locals are just used to oddball surfers everywhere, so no lizardman freakshow reactions these past few days. Even met a pierced peruvian boy...wow.

The waves on Saturday were perfect for my level, especially using a lot shorter board. Further down at El Faro, they were a lot bigger. Scarily crashing on sharp rocks, so I decided against trying there.
There´s something compeltley enjoyable about seeing the sun set during 3 hours of playing around and forgetting about anything else but trying to catch the perfect wave. I hung with some young pacasmayan lads who were also getting used to smaller and thinner boards on both days. Sunday unfortunatley was a bit flat wave-wise so only went in for 2 hours.. I it was also my T shot day so felt quite tired and watched a few crap films on the box.

There is a big swell on Wednesday, so I´m off to Huanchaco today and do a bit of history\ cultural studies tommorrow -the Huaca of the Sun and The Moon. Then Wednesday hopefully hit Puerto Chicama, were the world´s longest left hand break is at...2km.
Nearly bought a second hand surf board this weekend, but maybe good that I didn´t. I´m not sure whether I´ve got the guts to do it in the freezing north sea!

After that I´m heading back to Lima, then doing the Macchu Picchui stuff - might not bother with the trek as I can´t be arsed to buy any shoes. Possibly a bit of Lake Titicaca, and finally the Mummy Juanita in Arequipa, before heading back north to Mancora and more surfing. There´s also a surf competition in Miraflores (Lima) on the 19th-20th April which if I´m about I might go check out...have a perve on Peru´s premium female surfer...

Friday, March 28, 2008

Madonna in ill informed ranting attention seeking bollocks shocker


Pop Queen Madonna has hit out at London's transport network.The star criticised the congestion charge, the Tube and complained that traffic was worse than ever.Madonna, 49, often spotted cycling around the capital but also using chauffeur-driven limousines, told Q magazine: "I would make it so that young musicians, aspiring musicians wouldn't have to pay the congestion charge or pay taxes."They would be exempt from those kind of things so they would have more money to do other things."Will Ken Livingstone get my vote? No. The traffic in London is worse than ever now. All Red Ken wants is roadworks going on everywhere."She added: "Don't use The Tube; can't use the roads? No. I'll just have to walk I guess."Madonna has criticised various aspects of UK life since moving to Britain, including lazy builders, officious parking wardens, fuel prices, old-fashioned hospitals and the weather.Friends of the Earth London campaigner Jenny Bates said of the star's most recent complaint: "The C-charge has reduced congestion and cut carbon dioxide emissions."A spokesman for the Mayor said: "If we hadn't had the C-charge we would now be in gridlock. The roadworks she refers to are long overdue."


Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Tsschk! You gotta show 'em who's dominant

I have taught the cutest 8 week old puppy Mocha in the youth hostel to sit!

Lambayeque Culture

I'm pleased to say I'm learning quite a lot about my ancestors, the ancient civilizations being more interesting to me than the current one.
I don't think I mentioned my visit to Lima's Museo de Oro (Gold) but I buzzed off that place, mainly because there were rows and rows of orejones(earrings), narijeras (nose sheilds) and big gauge labrets (Chimu civilization: has a proper name but I lost my notes)
As I already knew, orejones are the sign of nobility and/or wisdom. Annoyingly only men are thought to have worn them in this manner. (Although not according to Mel Gibson's error filled Apocalypto)

Today I went and did a touristy trip of the Lambayeque culture, which is probably the main reason someone would come to Chiclayo in the first place. (Or at least me anyway)
The first stop was the Huaca Rajada, the original location of the tomb of the Lord of Sipan. It was only discovered in 1987, mainly due to Huaqueros (theives) looting lots of gold jewellry from the tombs. So along came the archeologists and started digging - with dental tweezers!) and unearthed some of the worlds best preserved tombs within rapidly disintegrating pyramids. When a lord died, it was custom to bury him with his whole entourage: the missus, the mistress, the child, the bodyguard, the servants (males had their feet chopped off so they couldn't run away), the llama, the dog. His sacerdote (bishop) had a seperate tomb. Should anyone of this clan die before the lord, they got buried temporarily. Folks still alive at the time of his death got slain. It was also custom for him to be buried with symbols of his people, which were the clay pots shaped like people. In this case, the Lord's death was unexpected so the clay pots are not very decorated. He had to be buried quick. (His father's death on the other hand had been expected so the pots are very detailed)
Plenty of gold was buried with the Lord, for the afterlife. This included 3 sets of orejeras, 2 narijeras: gold shelds that were worn threw the septum. They covered the lower face shaped like half moons, hollow on the inside edge so that the wearer sounded like deity from the echo and their facial expression could not be seen. Also his half-moon hat, his gold belts, dress, mouth full of gold coins). But what was even more treasured than gold was shells. And plenty of the jewellry were made out of intricate shell beading (into huge chest pieces) and wristbands. The Lord also had size 6 feet and some sandals made out of silver that were also in his tomb.
The Lambayeque were very different to the Incas in that being from the coastal regions, they worshiped the Moon as opposed to the Sun. The Moon after all controlled the ocean tides, and was represented in their metalwork by Silver. Silver was worn at night, when the moon was out, gold during the day for the Sun.
Some of the orejeras were made with tiny gold sequins pinned on, that when subject to movement (walking) shimmer and reflect light. In their world, even numbers of decoration on jewellry signified life, odd numbers death. Life jewellry would have smiling faces on it, death unhappy faces. Plenty of dress accessories weighed well over 1kg, and the main gold dress weighed 10kg!
Llamas actually were able to live in this area pre-colonization (spaniards changing the land for rice and sugar cane) as it was a forest type terrain. Dominated by the super strong carrob tree which was used as reinforcement in their structures - and to cover their tombs.
El Nino followed by the Inca domination eventually ended this civilization

I think I might take a history evening class when I get back home...

The next stop was the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipan, which was one amazingly massive modern pyramid constructed in the middle of a small community. Only nobility lived in pyramids, the commoners lived in houses; so quite true to life!
Here is where the actual tombs and real gold, bronze, ceramic and shell artifacts are kept, sealed in glass to preserve them from our dirty germs ad cameras. (no cameras allowed inside). This was a really cool setup and I'm glad I booked the whole trip. The tour guide passed on a lot of information in a bad combination of spanish and english. As well as getting as many anti-american and spanish stories in as possible (to the pleasure of the chicago people on the tour) , and also some strong pro indiginous rants!
I couldn't stop myself from purchasing a pair of replica orejeras which were quite expensive but unlikely to be able to buy anywhere else. Luckily my hostel is 13 soles a night!

After 3 hours in the museum it was time for dinner (I was starving by this time). I made friend with the americans, one of whom was interestingly half chiclayo as his dad is from here. His cousin was also a good source of knowledge on how not to get ripped off by the locals.

The we went on to the pyramids, which were pretty impressive - my photos don't do them justice, especially the trek up to the top. There was a magic stone up there which I had a go on but no signs of anything abnormal just yet.
By this time is was half five - I'd done the equivalent of a full day at work and was feeling it. Oh to be travelling. Suckers! ;)

El Perreo

Tarapoto:

The journey to this place was by far the best thing, had a few pre-journey beers with one of the collectivo drivers in a video bar opposite the garage. It didn't take a genius to work out el gordito was trying to drink faster and more beer than me, which cannot slip when sharing the same big bottle and two glasses - as per custom here. I can't help competing and my trained trans-bladder held the whole session until he pissed first. I was educated in Perreo and where to go to find clubs like this. (I already dance like this at least in my head)
By this time 2 more passengers had arrived so our collectivo car was full and off we went.
After the first 30 mins of silence, we eventually began talking about our mutual dislike of the cops, who in cuzco apparently are called Incas because the worship El Sol (i.e soles/currency/money/bribes) I chuckled to myself as i actually got the joke, but it was to be the only one of that journey. Didn't understand the other jokes apart from one unfunny gay joke not even amusing.
I arrived, determined to go El Pabillon to meet my pal from the bar and the guy who I talke politics with in the car. Unfortunatley I was knackered and kind of over being stared at like a freak for my ears and tattoos for the day. So i watched the Texas Chainsaw Massacre (reminding me I need to research that on google) plus quite a good semi animation about Lions called Zuki, la leoncita valiente. Brushing up on my spanish.

The next day I set off to get my bus ticket to Chiclayo, from the outskirts of town. Got a bargain trip of 14 hours for 50 soles, which was 30 soles cheaper than one competitor. Little did I know that this meant the toilet could only be used to pass water...which immediately made me need the other function and in for quite an uncomfortable journey. Luckily I managed to sleep for at least 7 hours non stop and then dozed here and there till we finally pulled up to the dusty city of Chiclayo.

Saturday, March 22, 2008

We are Everywhere

There is a local transperson here in Yurimaguas! I thought I spotted her the first day I arrived, but then dismissed her as a tall woman. However, this morning she walked right into me as I left the hostel. So that was cool, except of course I´d like to talk to her but am not about to strike up a conversation about her trans status considering I don´t even know her. In the reverse situation I´d be a bit annoyed if some random came up and wanted to know about my personal life. Anyway, she was hot and latina and it made me happy to know I´m not the only one here.
...I wrote this earlier this morning before the computer I was on crashed..(luckily saved by blogger) anyway, I bumped into the transwomen again on my way out of a shop. they were both loving my orejones so I blurted out I was trans too...it was cool! unfortunatley my ride to tarapoto was in 10 minutes so I couldnt talk for long or hang with them as they suggested, but not even! 3 transfolks in the Jewel of the Huallaga.


I realised I forgot to say anything about Iquitos, where I stayed for two days before leaving for Yurimaguas. Well it was quite a pleasent place, if totally touristy but in some ways nice to see some other travellers as I´ve been pretty much on my own most of the trip. On the boat I ´d already joined a bunch of 3 guys who were all from different countries in europe, and spanish was the only langauge we all understood. So we were actually speaking spanish for the whole trip. I learnt lots of card games and dice and refreshed my chess.

They got accosted by some peruvian scamster who wanted to take them to the jungle for free and to a hostel he knew well. He was doing the complete "that hostel you want to go to is full\closed\etc, come to this one" To cut a long story short I left them saying I needed to be near the centre and would check the situation for myself. One in the motortaxi, the driver tried to get me to go the SAME hostel our "amigo" had been trying to push on the boat! So I decided well against it, and the way things turned out one of my friends got 300 soles stolen out of his backpack when he left it in the room. Even dodgier considering that when he kicked up a fuss and was going to get the police involved and told the owners he was going to slate the place on the internet (as they didn´t want him calling the cops) they gave him his 300 soles back!!
Im hoping they´re all ok as when I left they were heading out to the jungle with the peruvian guy as a guide (Rene is his name in case I need for future ref) .

I made friends with one of my hostels jungle guides who was actually a Yagua tribesman, mainly when I stumbled into the hostel after a night out on the town. In the morning he took me to Belen which is a huge market area in Iquitos to show me the sights. There were plenty of horror sights there though, de-shelled turtles cut up to show unhatched eggs on display (also eaten here), a very sad bloody shell on the side :( and even worse, crocodile limbs and tails. Seeing as these animals are heading towards extinction, it´s very sad to see that those living the closest to the are completly oblivious to their welfare. It was a simliar situation to the animal sanctuary where the main purpose of the reserve was to conserve the butterflies of the area. The woman who ran it was an austrian lady who obviously has given up with humans and dedicated herself to these orphan animals. Apparently the local kids kill all the caterpillars they find because they think they´re poisonous worms and don´t understand that they become the butterflies - certain breeds of which are in threat of extinction. The sanctuary is a place the kids can go to learn about the process, as they don´t get taught this sort of stuff at school. I found that concept really odd, consdering how when I was little and living in a 3 storey flat in Spain used to collect caterpillars and feed them until they made a cocoon etc etc.. However I didn´t know that the butterfly or moth only lives for 2 weeks after transformation.
Maybe a jungle version of "The Hungry Caterpillar" book would be a good option...

I then made friends with a peruvian guy called Edu who was in my dorm, helpfully from Lima and quite pleasent. It´s definfetly a lot better going anywhere with a paisano as they know when someone´s trying to take the piss soles-wise or just generally. Anyway, we went out for a few beers and then he decided to take me to a "fiesta del pueblo" where apparently the locals are going to be at. It was quite a strange set up, felt a bit like i was in a reggaeton music video except there was also a kind of hostile vibe going off too. Not sure whether it was to just me or Edu or both or just general peruvian guys being all macho. When nature called for me, we decided to go rather then get duffed up in the bog. However, I did spy a group of peruvian emo kids!!

Friday, March 21, 2008

Max^s Gym, Yurimaguas

Finally managed to workout yesterday, after a month or so of no training.
It was but a stroke of luck, seeing as my moto-carrista was wearing a t-shirt advertsing the gym and i asked me to take me there instead.
it{s a spit and sawdust place with retro 70{s equipment, but has enough to keep me from going over the edge for another few weeks. it has a roman chair so could do my obliques and a dipping station. perfect!
haven{t lost much, if anything i was pretty strong which was good. stronger than anyone else there, which i guess is down to western diet and the fact im not working. i had to also remind myself i was born female, just to blow my own private trumpet! :) the break seems to have done my knackered elbow tendons some good, as they aren{t hurting at all.
also got told about an Amazonian bodybuilding competition that{s happening in August. im quite excited to hear that folks are doing stuff like this in somewhere so remote! (Yurimaguas is on the edge of the Amazon). obviously not my scene seeing as my idea of a six pack is the tinned or bottled kind... going again later today.

had a weird dream last night of buying my old gym in leeds called Adams, for 888,840 pounds..which is well excessive but it had a huge basement and upper living quarters. hope thats not an omen of how much its going to cost in real life. can{t wait to get that gym started though...

the boat trip to Yurimaguas was less thought provoking as I managed to trade my interesting books for some rubbish ones about nymphomania (not half as interesting as it sounds), a crap book about a female spy (again a let down) and a story about twin incest and murder....this one was vaguely more interesting especially at the end as there is some crossdressing. the forth book was actually quite a good find, a diary of a CIA agent in the 60{s, which im still reading at the moment but has some food for though in it. like the CIA actually being the unknown leaders of certain socialist and workers parties within ecuador, in order to control the level of anti-US feeling. hmm. the book is not for sale in the US , so im gonna keep my hands on it.
otherwise, i was stationed behind a small girl who cried and whined most of the journey (4 days) and put me off wanting to have kids.